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If you can't find it (farmer's markets are your best bet), go for curly kale, Swiss chard, ruby chard or Savoy cabbage.
We worried that our chard and kale bunches were of variable size.
I ordered the tuna salad with cherry tomatoes, sugar snaps, new potatoes, black olives, red chard and vinaigrette of baby capers and fresh herbs.
A French table is likely to have on it a cauldron of vegetable soup, complete with carrots and chard and tiny pasta shapes such as macaroni.
It can be made with chard or spinach and works well with a little crumbled feta through it, although traditionally the feta would be omitted as cheese is forbidden during Lent.
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